Everything you should know about sunscreen products...

The difference between mineral and chemical sunscreen explained briefly: 

• Mineral/physical filters lay on the skin like a mirror and reflect sunlight.
• Chemical/organic filters convert sunlight into heat in the skin.

Some, especially chemical filters, are often controversial. Why this is, which filters to avoid and which ones you can use without concern, we will talk about now.

Good UV filters should not trigger allergies, be environmentally and coral-friendly, not penetrate the skin and have no side effects on the organism, contain no nanoparticles, not enter the bloodstream and be photostable.  

In contrast to Europe, it is already required in the USA that sunscreen filters must be listed separately so that they can be better identified and checked. In addition, sunscreens are considered medicines in America and are subject to stricter testing than cosmetic products. In Europe, however, a whole range of active ingredients are used that are not approved by the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

To be able to weigh up which sunscreen factor is suitable, it is worth taking a closer look at the INCIs. We want to provide some background knowledge with this article.

Among the chemical UV filters, there are some that are not photostable, which makes them controversial, among other things. This means that they break down in combination with UV radiation. These decomposition products can irritate the skin and significantly impair the protective effect. They can also be created when the minimum shelf life is exceeded. It is therefore recommended not to store sunscreen products with chemical filters until the next summer season.

While mineral UV filters are considered very safe, well tolerated and do not cause allergic reactions, some chemical filters can trigger allergies that are often mistakenly interpreted as a sun allergy, but could be resolved simply by changing the sunscreen product. For very sensitive skin prone to allergies, we recommend using mineral filters, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. However, it should be noted that these are not used in the form of nanoparticles. Nanoparticles can enter the body and affect or even damage the organism. You can recognize them in the INCIs by the addition of "Nano". In addition, some very well tolerated and stable filters of the new generation are suitable.

Even though mineral filters are often better tolerated, this does not mean that chemical/organic UV filters are worse. This is always to be considered individually depending on the filter, skin condition, sensitivity, intolerances or personal preferences.

If you want to rely on pure natural cosmetics, you will only find mineral UV filters. 

With chemical UV filters, it is first necessary to take a closer look at the ingredients. 

Among the safe, well tolerated and above all photostable chemical filters are Enzulisol, Iscotrizinol, Mexoryl XL, Mexoryl SX, Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus and Uvinul T 150. 

You can find the INCIs of the respective filters in a list at the end of the article. 

Chemical filters with side effects, which are hormonally active, trigger allergies, disrupt metabolic processes or are not photostable, should be avoided. In studies, it has also been proven that these substances penetrate the skin - they could be detected both in the blood and in breast milk.

Among the questionable UV filters are: Octocrylene, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, Homosalates, Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate. 

But even with the quite modern, safe filters, you should look very closely. For example, if it is Tinosorb S Lite Aqua (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer), then this filter is encapsulated with microplastics. 

Caution is also advised with the filters Tinosorb M and Tinosorb A2B. These are "mixed filters" that contain both chemical and mineral components, which in this case are in the form of nanoparticles. They can be recognized under the INCIs Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Nano) and Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (Nano).  

Did you know that sunscreens cause so-called coral bleaching and thus cause considerable damage to the oceans and coral reefs? 

Every year, between 6,000 and 14,000 tons of ingredients from sunscreens enter the world's oceans. They are not biodegradable, remain permanently in the water and damage marine organisms in the long term.

Among the coral- and environmentally harmful UV filters are: Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, Octinoxate and Tinosorb S Lite Aqua. 

In addition to the environmentally harmful factors, they are also very concerning for the human organism, where they act as endocrine disruptors, among other things. This can not only lead to inflammatory reactions of the skin, but also affect the growth of unborn babies.  

In many places, the possible dangers that sunscreen products pose to humans and the environment are now being addressed. For example, Hawaii has even passed a law that prohibits the sale of sunscreens with the chemical ingredients Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. In Australian pharmacies, there are shelves with products labeled as "reef friendly" or "reef safe" and usually without chemical UV filters, microplastics and nanoparticles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Authorities in regions such as Florida, Cancun and Tulum also recommend using sunscreens with biodegradable ingredients. 

The long-term effects of many ingredients are not yet sufficiently researched, and it is therefore always necessary to weigh the risks, inform yourself and rely on the safest filters possible.     

Safe chemical filters: 

• Enzulisol INCI: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 
• Iscotrizinol INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone 
• Mexoryl XL INCI: Drometrizole Trisiloxane 
• Mexoryl SX INCI: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid 
• Tinosorb S INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 
• Uvinul A Plus INCI: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 
• Uvinul T 150 INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone   

Safe mineral filters: 

• Zinc Oxide INCI: Zinc Oxide 
• Titanium Dioxide INCI: Titanium Dioxide

You should avoid these UV filters: 

• Benzophenone-3, -4 & -5 (hormonal effect, allergy-inducing) 
• Bis-Ethylhexyl­oxyphenol Methoxy­phenyl Triazine, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer (microplastics) 
• Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (allergy-inducing) 
• Homosalates (hormonal effect, allergy-inducing) 
• Isoamyl Methoxy­cinnamate (hormonal effect, allergy-inducing) 
• Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (nano) (nanoparticles) 
• Octyl Methoxy­cinnamate (hormonal effect) 
• Octocrylene (hormonal effect, accumulates in the organism) 
• Polysilicone-15 (silicone) 
• Titanium Dioxide (nano) (nanoparticles) 
• Tris-Biphenyl Triazine (nano) (nanoparticles)Zinc Oxide (nano) (nanoparticles) 
• 4-Methyl­benzyliden Camphor (hormonal effect)